For the price of this stove, I was prepared for disappointment...but that never happened. There are limitations to any small stove, but within those, this thing makes me very happy.
I use my stove inside a 25' long RV trailer -- about 200 square feet and tall enough to stand up in throughout. I made an adapter to pass the double-wall adapter through an open window, and I set the stove on a low bench inside, with the flue passing out the window at a 45. It's not perfect but it beats freezing! The top of the flue is guyed back to the wall of the RV with two thin cables on turnbuckles -- this is mandatory when using the 45s otherwise the wind will spin and blow over the flue (only when the stove is off -- when it's on, the joints expand and are tight). The coldest I've used the stove in was low 20's with 8" of snow coming down, and I was giggling in shorts and a t-shirt inside. I fully expect (but have not tested) that this stove could maintain comfort into the low teens, and probably keep my rig quite livable down near zero.
The stove will run at a low temp, but that's fiddly to do. It's hard to keep it burning well when it's that cool (and also keep it hot enough to avoid creosote). A stove thermometer is very helpful for this. Mostly though, this stove likes to run wide-open. You can damp it down if you have good wood, but this weakens the draw and the stove will puff back if it's windy outside. I'd love to see a venturi flue cap to solve this. Note that "wide open" usually means about 30* of damping on the flue and the inlet damper fully closed. If you allow in more air than that, the stove will glow cherry surprisingly fast. Even without getting it cherry red, the stove walls do warp some -- to be expected (and acceptable) given how thin and light the construction is -- but if you keep it below cherry the warping is manageable and all the doors and latches operate without binding. Get it hotter though, and you may be in for trouble. I strongly recommend a stovetop thermometer (the version meant to go on the stove body, not the flue). Lay it on top beside the flue exit (magnetic ones won't stick to the SS).
My use is primarily space heating, but I boil water and have cooked on it, too. The fold-out side racks are very sturdy -- I don't hesitate to put a full 2Q pot on them -- and more useful than I expected, especially for drying socks!!! You can't see it in the online pics, but the pivots are designed so the racks are tilted slightly upwards so when you put a pot on them, they sag down to be level. Details like that are SO important!
The stove body is not airtight. This obviously includes the cooking opening, but there are also gaps in the welds which I think might help reduce warping. This is fine -- once you learn how to keep it drawing, smoke leaks aren't an issue -- but it means you can never really shut down the inlet airflow. That's why the flue damper is not optional. It can shut down the stove in a hurry. If you're running any outside section of the flue non-vertical, rain can come into the flue when the stove is off. Partially it blows into the spark arrestor but mostly it sticks to the outside of the (cold) flue pipe and then runs downhill from there, getting into the joints. It will either drip down inside the stove or drip out of the pivot for the flue damper; either way it ends up on the floor behind the stove.
The 15" length is simultaneously a relief and a frustration. Other small stoves on the market are cube-shaped and you have to saw down every piece of wood you feed them, since most wood you buy is bucked to 16". If you're lucky it's a bit short but if you're unlucky it's a bit long. Because the door of the Nomad is full-width, if you split your logs down small - like less than a baseball bat in girth -- you can load them diagonally into the firebox -- but it's close. I generally end up sawing about half my store-bought wood so it will fit. This is a major advantage of the Nomad over the Woodlander, which has a narrower front opening and can't really do this. Ideally, though, you want short thick logs for a slower burn that doesn't require constant attention. Long skinny splits burn fast, so you'll be filling the firebox every 20 minutes.
Cleaning the flue isn't as bad as I feared. The instructions say to clean something like every 20 hours...but I went probably a full 30-40 before taking it down last time, and buildup inside wasn't bad. That was burning some pretty low-quality (but dry and not sappy) pinyon pine. I think the thermometer is so important for this, so you get it hot enough and keep it hot enough to prevent buildup. The available cleaning brush is effective, but a bit tedious to use by hand -- I screwed a long hex female coupler into the bottom so I could chuck it into my drill : )